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Choosing a Saddle to suit
you and your Horse
"We want you to have a saddle that fits you and your horse well."
FIRST PRIORITY IS A SADDLE TREE TO FIT YOUR HORSE.
We offer five basic styles of saddle tree:
Thoroughbred Tree - for high withered, narrow shouldered, or young horses.
Stock Horse Tree - will fit a big range of stock horses.
Semi Quarter Horse Tree - for stock horse / quarter horse cross.
Quarter Horse Tree - for heavy set, low withered horses
Full Quarter Horse Tree - for extreme quarter horse styles of horses.
To choose a saddle tree for a particular horse or particular breed of horse, a template of the horse's wither is a great help. Take a piece of soft fencing wire and run it up the shoulder and over the wither. Trace the shape out on some paper.
Photos of your horse side on and from the rear looking down along the back from a raised position will assist us in choosing the best tree option.
"We recommend that you choose a tree to fit your widest horse because you can always pad up but not down."
SADDLE FIT:
HOW TO ADAPT ONE SADDLE TO SUIT A WIDE RANGE OF HORSES:
Placing heavy pads under the saddle changes the shape of the horse so we need to consider if they are necessary for each individual horse.
We recommend using a light saddle cloth to gauge the fit of the saddle. If the saddle fits well, leave it at that.
Comfort and fit for the horse is about saddle shape, not about softness.
FENDER OPTIONS
Once you've decided on the tree, consider your riding style. We have two options for hanging the fenders which give a very different feel:
Fenders hung over the tree bars for the rider who likes to ride more straight up and down, western or dressage style.
Fenders hung from spring bars for the rider who likes plenty of forward movement with the fenders. An advantage of this option is that the fenders should come off if you get hung up.
Your choice of fender mounts will be determined by the styles of saddle you are used to, and your riding style; whatever suits you.
LEATHER
We have used Greenhalgh's bark tanned leather in our saddles and gear for many years and have found it to be supple and long wearing.
Smooth or Rough Out Leather?
We recommend rough out leather for heavy work conditions as it doesn't show scratches and gives better grip for the rider. Another option is rough out seat and knee pads with the skirt and fenders smooth. Smooth out all over is also available but is not recommended for work conditions.
Most of our saddles are made either rough out (i.e. flesh side out) or a combination of rough and smooth because:
- We find that the rough side of leather stands up to everyday wear and tear better than the smooth side;
- The strongest part of the leather is the smooth side so it needs to be protected from damage by scratching and rubbing;
- A cut on the smooth side will open up whereas the rough side of leather can be cut half way through without opening up;
- A scratched smooth out saddle doesn't look too good therefore affecting resale value;
- Rough out seats and kneepads also give a better grip.
SADDLE SIZE
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We believe that choosing the correct size for a personal saddle is
paramount so we wan as much information as possible. Its also very
important to consider weight fluctuations. Ben, Daniel and Lyle have
had a vast experience in choosing the saddle size best suited to the
rider.
To choose the correct size saddle for you, we need your: |
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- Height
- Weight
- Age
- Jeans size
- Hip Measurement (around your butt)
- Thigh measurement (around one thigh near the top)
- Inside leg measurement (from your crutch to the floor with your boots on)
- A photo of the rider standing is a big help.
We measure the saddle size by measuring the bare tree from the back of the pommel to the inside top of the cantle. Saddle sizes are in increments of 1/2 inches.
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